Akoya These pearls are cultured in the Japanese Akoya oyster and account for the majority of retail pearl sales worldwide. The Akoya oyster is a small mollusk, so the pearls it produces range from 2mm to 9mm. After the oyster is grown to maturity (takes about three years), a polished shell bead and a piece of mantle tissue are surgically implanted into the oyster. This bead is the nucleus of the future cultured pearl; in nature, it would be the piece of sand or parasite that would irritate the oyster. The oyster secrets nacre to cover the bead. Nacre is composed of microscopic crystals that are uniquely aligned perfectly with one another. Light passing along the axis of one is reflected and refracted by the other. This is what gives the pearl its unique "glow". The oyster secretes and covers the bead with layer upon layer of nacre. The longer the pearl stays in the oyster, the more nacre will be layered and, usually, a better quality pearl will result. The average time to make a cultured pearl is two to three years. Afterwards, the pearls are harvested and sold to processors. The pearls are sorted, processed, and strung into hanks for export. A large number of Akoya pearls are strung into uniform and graduated necklaces, though these pearls are also very attractive in earrings, pendants, and rings. They are versatile gems, with different colors and shapes that can even be used for many one-of-a-kind pieces. While the traditional Akoya came from Japan, China has also started cultivating Akoya oysters in their own waters. However, they have not produced the same brilliant lustre and quality that Japan has -- as of yet...

Freshwater In China, Japan, and the US. of A., pearls are cultivated in freshwater mollusks. Different from the sea oysters, pearls in these mollusks are seeded with just pieces of mantle tissue. They produce large numbers of pearls in a single harvest. The high volume harvest allows these pearls to sell at lower prices. Also, the variety of colors, shapes, and sizes allow designers to create one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces.

Mabe Mabe pearls are also cultured. A hemispherical nucleus is inserted directly next to the inside oyster shell. The oyster will secrete nacre over this and form a "shell" of nacre in the shape of a half sphere. The nucleus is removed and the "shell" is filled in with paste and mother-of-pearl. These "half pearls" will range from light pink to rose to bluish in color.

South Sea South of Japan, you will find a bigger oyster around the countries of Australia, Indonesia, Myanmar, and others. This bigger oyster forms a cultured pearl in the same way as was outlined in the above Akoya pearl section. These pearls, however, range in size from 9mm to 16mm (or larger in special cases). They are divided into two main groups- White South Sea and Black South Sea. The "white" group contains colors from white to more bronze to a more metallic blue. Generally speaking these are the most expensive of all cultured pearls.

Tahitian The "black" group of South Sea cultured pearls are from oysters living in the waters around the island of Tahiti (hence, the name "Tahitian"). These oysters actually secrete a "black" nacre with color ranging from bluish to greenish/grayish to even a brownish hue. With the thick nacre layering, their distinct colors, and various shapes, Tahitian pearl is more expensive than the Akoya but more reasonably priced than the white south sea pearl.

Copyright 1998 Byard F. Brogan, Incorporated.